Center of the Universe, No Cell Coverage....

It seemed quite ironic that I couldn't get a cell phone signal in a place that some Native American groups once considered the center of the Universe. However, as night fell upon my campsite along the San Juan River near Bluff, Utah, I began to feel as though I was at the center of a very large universe. Stars dotted the sky in an almost surreal way and the Milky Way appeared like a milky haze across the night sky. I was certainly not at the center of the civilized universe.

After a restful night under the desert sky, I was ready to embark on a truly unique adventure back in time through a beautiful contradiction of sand, rock, and flowing water. The 26 mile, one-day trip started in Bluff, Utah, at the Wild Rivers Expedition headquarters. Bluff itself is an incredibly unique little town nestled between the majestic cliffs of Southeastern Utah and the mighty waters of the San Juan River. The small town is perfect for travelers looking to “get away from it all”.

Back in time…

Within moments of pushing off from the ramp it seemed as though time became much less relevant than it had been moments before. The gentle pace of the lazy river seemed to lull me into a bygone era. Just a few miles into the journey and we were already deep into Navajo country. We noticed a garden planted in the river’s flood plain to take advantage of the annual ebb and flow of the life-sustaining water in this harsh desert clime.

Even today it requires a hardy character, reminiscent of the old west, to carve out an existence in this rugged landscape. Although only a small portion of the tribal lands is visible from the river, it provided me with a brief glimpse into a much different world.

Eight miles later the scenery became more rugged and I found myself slipping further back into time. Tucked neatly into the crevices of small side canyons, ancient Native American cliff dwellings cleaved to the face of the rocks like swallow nests. I could not imagine a better fortress than the vertical walls of sheer rock that must have provided a defense and a refuge for the early inhabitants of these canyons.

Our guides pulled the raft to shore at a bend in the river and, after a brief pre-history lesson, led us on a short hike to one of the most brilliantly intact cliff dwellings that I had ever seen. Corn cobs were still in the hearth of an ancient fire place and the pristine view of the river found me half expecting to see one of the ancient inhabitants returning from an extended hunting expedition at any moment. 

Our next stop took us to the Butler Wash rock art panel -- a Sistine chapel of pre-historic petroglyphs. Even for someone who had seen many rock art panels I found the Butler Wash panel an overwhelming sight. Our guides provided expert interpretation of the many symbols preserved upon the rock face. 

It was hard to imagine the ancient gatherings that had once occurred here. According to our guides, this area represented both a spiritual and economic center for many of the Native American groups of the Southwest. To arrive in this place on foot must have required uncommon tenacity; in many places footholds had to be carved into the unyielding rock walls in order to pass. Those footholds can still be seen today.   

The latter portion of our float took us through an entirely different time period.  Canyon walls towered above us on both sides of the river. As the river carved these canyons it exposed the history of the earth, revealing the geologic layers in such a fashion that even an amateur could read the story it had to tell. Beautiful vegetation had taken hold wherever it could here, providing a verdant contrast to the brown rock and blue sky.  

The vegetation also provided food for the current residents of the canyon, desert big horn sheep.  The steep canyon walls and swiftly flowing river had corralled one of the largest herds of desert big horn sheep in all of Utah into a geographically confined area, providing a unique experience for those rafting the river. The wild sheep blended into the scenery like a chameleon in the jungle, but anyone willing to invest a few moments in scanning the canyon walls to find these well camouflaged creatures received a truly unique reward. 

The desert big horns provided a show that I will not soon forget, leaping from rock to rock like circus acrobats. They performed a brilliant balancing act on sheer cliffs and boulders. Unlike their domesticated cousins, watching wild desert big horn sheep will do anything but put you to sleep! Several herds provided entertainment throughout the day.

The river flowed more wildly through the canyon as well. While the rapids on this portion of the San Juan do not compare with some of the white water on the nearby Green and Colorado Rivers, they certainly added an adrenalin rush to the tranquil euphoria of a scenic river trip. Because the BLM limits boat traffic on the San Juan, we only saw a few other groups of people that day. We ended our journey at Mexican Hat, so named for a unique geologic feature that truly did resemble a man wearing a sombrero! While it is possible to see the Mexican Hat from the road, my personal opinion is that the view was much better from the river.

As we loaded the rafts onto trailers I couldn’t help but notice communication towers on the top of a bluff. Although the town of Mexican Hat is even smaller than Bluff, it still seemed to remind me that my remote escape back in time couldn’t last for ever. Nonetheless, the remote area, the varied scenery, spectacular wildlife, and priceless experiences made this trip an invaluable addition to my ever-expanding collection of memories.

If you go…

I floated the river during the last week of June. The flows were good, the air and water temperatures delightful and the scenery was magnificent. However, prior to going, make sure to check with the Bureau of Land Management office to receive one of the limited permits required to float the river. And make sure you plan ahead, they are a hot ticket!

Alternatively, you can choose the route that I chose and hire a local guide, such as Wild Rivers Expeditions. They provide the rafts (or personal kayaks), delicious (locally grown) food, water, transportation from Mexican Hat back to Bluff, and expert interpretation of the history and geology of the region. And you don’t have to worry about the permitting!

Also, while you are in the area, be sure to check out the millions of other adventures that can be found in the region. Bluff’s four-corners-area location is ideal for those looking for anything from red rock, national parks, alpine forests, river rafting, hiking, photography, historical sites, and much, much more!